The sprigs of this Mediterranean herb are used to good advantage in cooking roast lamb, veal and chicken as well as in making pot roasts and marinades. The chopped leaves are often used in soups, fish dishes, meat stews and dishes based on potatoes, peas and sweet peppers. Jordanians, Syrians and Lebanese use rosemary in fruit compotes, with grilled and fried fish, in fish stuffings and with chicken and pea soups.
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SAFFRON
Saffron comes from the stigmas of the autumn crocus. If you have ever wondered why this spice is so expensive (a kilo of the finest saffron costs nearly $6000), it is because each crocus has only three stigmas, each of which must be picked by hand and it takes over 500,000 stigmas to make a kilo of spice. Fortunately, a little saffron goes a long way, so no one need go bankrupt in purchasing a small container. Saffron strands are used in making bouillabaisse and other fish soups, in fish and shellfish dishes, rice dishes, chicken dishes, sauces, breads and cakes.
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SAGE
Sage is an evergreen shrub that originated in the Mediterranean. It is used in cooking to flavor meats and fish and to make teas. With its strong flavor and mildly bitter taste, sage should always be used sparingly and goes particularly well with fatty foods such as goose, duck, sausages and meat stews. It is indispensable to the famous Italian dish, saltimbocca, and many Mediterranean people use it with salads. It was originally used only for medicinal purposes.
How to grow:
Sage is best grown in pots and should be propagated by cuttings in the late spring. As the plant matures, the stalks should be cut back after flowering to encourage the bush to grow in a compact shape. Sprigs are best when picked just before the bush flowers. The leaves dry and freeze well.
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SALT
Salt is a class of compounds, the most common of which is sodium chloride. The average salt consumption is 7-25 g. daily which includes both table salt and sodium contained in foods.
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SPICES
Spices have played such an important role in world history that the Pharaohs of ancient Egypt declared them to be sacred. Several Roman Emperors ordered specially designed ships to be built to sail to Asia and the eastern coast of Africa to attain them and Spanish armadas conquered more than half of the New World and a good part of Asia in order to guarantee their kings and queens as large a stockpile of spices as they wanted.
The Pharaohs valued spices mostly for their use in making the incense known as "kuphi" - literally "holy smoke" - with which they worshipped their gods. The Romans used them primarily to hide the flavor and smell of rancid meat and spoiled fish, while the Spanish, who considered them more valuable than gold, hid supplies away in royal warehouses, well guarded from the common people who might want to do anything so foolish as to cook with them.
There is nothing difficult about cooking with spices so long as one follows three basic guidelines. First, unlike herbs which come mostly from the leaves and stems of soft stemmed aromatic plants and are almost always best when used fresh, spices may come from the roots, bark, flower buds, fruits or seeds of aromatic plants and are invariably best when dried. Second, spices should be used in quantities just sufficient enough to enhance the subtlety of a dish and not drown the inherent flavors of the foods being prepared. Finally, when preparing long cooking dishes such as stews and soups, remember that because ground spices give out their flavor quickly, they should be added only 20 - 30 minutes before the end of cooking.
Even though not all of the spices used in the cuisine of the region originated in or grow in the Mediterranean, all have important uses in the cuisine's of Egypt, Israel, Jordan, Lebanon, Syria, Turkey and Greece.
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SUGAR
Sugar is expunged from either sugar beets or sugarcane and then refined in various forms. It is one of the most ancient of flavorings and was introduced to Europe through Christopher Columbus from the West Indies, where it is still a major crop.
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GRANULATED SUGAR
Granulated sugar is the sugar most often found in everyday use for such things as coffee and cereal. It is ideal for making caramel.
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BROWN SUGAR
Brown sugar is a granular, refined sugar. Molasses is added for color and flavor. There are both light and dark brown sugars.
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CASTER SUGAR
Caster sugar is simply granulated sugar that, through a milling process, becomes extremely fine and, therefore, dissolves faster. As a result, it is ideal for baking recipes where the coarse texture of granulated sugar would otherwise affect the delicacy of the dish, such as with meringues or sponge cakes.
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CONFECTIONER'S SUGAR
Confectioner's sugar, sometimes referred to as powdered sugar or icing sugar, is the finest of all sugars. It is used primarily for icing and decorating cakes, cookies and other sweets. Always sift icing sugar before using to break up any lumps.
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SUMAC
Whole or ground, sumac is used in a wide variety of Mediterranean recipes. The sumac bush grows wild in the Middle East and fills the landscape with its beautiful deep red color. Sumac berries vary in color, although ground sumac is usually found in a brick red or brownish color. Sumac's sour flavor resembles that of a lemon, and was once used by the Romans as a lemon substitute. Sumac is commonly used in Turkish salads, to flavor kebabs, and to spice up fish in Lebanon and Syria.
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TAHINI
Tahini, often spelled tahina, is a paste made from ground sesame seeds. It can range from thick to thin, and from delicate to grainy. It is used primarily as a dip that accompanies many Middle Eastern dishes such as kebabs, or as a sauce for sandwiches, particularly falafel. It can also be used as a base for many sauces, and as a side sauce for vegetable and fruit dishes.
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TAMARIND SYRUP
Tamarind, also known as Indian Date, comes from an evergreen with green, oval shaped leaves. Tamarind is the red-veined yellow flowers from the evergreen, which eventually ripen into brown pods. Inside the pod is a fleshy pulp which holds the tamarind seeds. The seeds are then ground into a concentrate. It has a sour, fruity flavor and adds a wonderful aroma to dishes. When cooking with tamarind concentrate, remember that a little bit goes a long way. Keep in mind that tamarind concentrate is generally 4-5 times stronger than tamarind syrup. Use with fish, poultry, rice and meat dishes. It also enhances the flavor and adds a gentle sourness to many desserts, jams and jellies. Store in plastic bags in a cool, dark place or in the refrigerator.
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TARRAGON
With its mildly licorice and slightly bitter flavor, tarragon is considered the prince of herbs. The chopped leaves are used in salads and sauces, in many egg dishes and with fish, veal, chicken and turkey. Tarragon vinegar is excellent for salads and the herb is an excellent accompaniment with potato, mushroom, spinach and artichoke dishes. Dried tarragon should be used lightly, as it can be bitter.
How to grow:
It is easy to grow tarragon in window boxes or pots, but one should be careful of creeping roots. Grown indoors it can be used throughout the year and the leaves may be dried or frozen.
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TEA
The Chinese drank tea from the 6th century on; it was only in the 16th century that tea was introduced to Europe by Portuguese traders. Tea became stylish in the 17th century and soon became imported quite heavily. It became popular in Britain, where it is considered the national beverage. The tea bag appeared in the late 1950s -- it is considered a great convenience by some, while others see it as an aberration. Some popular varieties of tea are Earl Grey, lapsang suchong, and pekoe.
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THYME
There are more than 50 varieties of thyme, all native to the Mediterranean region. Its leaves are used primarily in cooking, sometimes in liqueurs, and in some desserts. The sprigs are used for making stocks and marinades. The chopped leaves are frequently used in soups, fish, meat, poultry, cheese and egg dishes. The leaves may also be used in stews, stuffings and a wide variety of sauces.
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CHILLI SAUCE
Chilli sauce is made from steeping chillies in vinegar. They range from mild to extremely hot, and from red (from tomatoes) to yellow (from turmeric). Chilli sauces can be used in the preparation of meat and poultry dishes, stews, soups, marinades and salads, or simply as a table sauce or condiment. A general rule of thumb when using chilli sauce is that because of its heat, a few drops is usually enough to flavor the dish.
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TURMERIC
Turmeric is the irregularly shaped root of a tropical plant related to ginger. It is a perennial with large leaves and yellow flowers. Generally it is available only in powder form. In India, it is regarded as an antiseptic. Turmeric is also known as "Indian saffron." Essential to curry powder, ground turmeric is also used in fish and shellfish dishes, curries, stews, rice dishes, vegetable dishes, sauces, pickles and chutneys.
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VANILLA
Vanilla comes from pale yellow orchids that grow in tropical climates. When harvested vanilla beans are green, odorless and flavorless. It takes six months of curing, fermenting and drying to produce the dark brown, nearly black color and characteristic fragrance. And because of this, vanilla is very expensive. The distilled oil of the bean is known either as vanillin or vanilla extract.
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ZA'ATAR
One of the herbs mentioned in the Bible, this plant is frequently used in Middle-Eastern cookery. Zahtar, or za'atar, is a kind of crossbreed of thyme, marjoram, and oregano. This combination, which often includes sesame seeds, is used for dipping bread into or for seasoning meats and vegetables. The dried leaves go well with stews, salads, and fruit pies and are particularly appropriate for use with oily fish.
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AMARETTO
Amaretto is an almond liqueur made from bitter almonds. It originated in northern Italy in the early sixteenth century. The name Amaretto comes from the Italian word, amaro, meaning bitter. It is used primarily in sweets and desserts but can also make a nice addition to fruit dishes.
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ARAK/OUZO
Since Biblical times, those who have inhabited the region have had a special place in their hearts and on their palates for the flavor of anise. When an alcoholic beverage is drunk nearly anywhere in the region it is frequently the anise-flavored colorless spirit called arak. Aniseed berries are diluted in a neutral spirit to produce this liquorice flavored liqueur, the favorite of the Mediterranean area. The best known are called pastis in France, arak in Arabic nations, ouzo in Greece, and raki in Turkey. Libyan kasra has a similar taste but is based on wine. This is a beverage that can be taken either with or without water. Under any circumstances it is a fairly strong intoxicant which, when mixed with water becomes cloudy. Under any circumstances, it is one of the most deceptive beverages known.
When sipping the very smooth arak, one suffers the illusion that it really must be a rather mild drink. The novice is invariably amazed at how much he or she can imbibe without feeling intoxicated. Many newcomers to the drink will consume as many as ten glasses in succession, feeling absolutely sober. And then they try to stand up...
At that point most people come rather quickly to the startling realization this particular action has become, at least temporarily, impossible. The legs and their fifty-seven controlling muscles are simply no longer willing to coordinate with the various messages of the brain. Most people do not panic at this point, for this realization is generally accompanied by a quiet kind of euphoria, in which it really doesn't matter very much if they stand up or not.
More experienced drinkers know that there is even a way to avoid getting intoxicated on arak and men and women of acute mental abilities can consume even vast quantities without losing control of their legs or moral facilities. Whether this special knowledge derived from the astute observations of some early Arab philosopher or simply by trial and error, it is known that small amounts of food imbibed while sipping arak will prevent overly severe intoxication while not depriving the drinker of the flavor and other positive side-effects.
There are also several recipes that rely on arak as an ingredient. Even teetotalers should have no objection to cooking with arak as the cooking process boils off all of the alcohol in the liqueur.
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BRANDY
Brandy is a liqueur most often associated with flambe. Once heated, the alcohol burns off. What remains is the flavorful extract. Brandy can also be added to coffee or ice cream.
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COFFEE
Nearly everyone agrees that coffee is one of the basic requirements of life, but just how this delicious beverage became established as one of the world's most favorite drinks remains somewhat of a mystery. One legend has it that the discovery of coffee came about when a 11th century Mullah, or Moslem priest, called Hadely, suffered terrible guilt feelings when he constantly found himself dozing off in the middle of his prayers. The Prophet Mohammed, touched by his sorrow, led the priest to a goat herder who told him that whenever his goats ate the berries of a certain shrub they would remain awake, jumping and romping through the night.
The Mullah found this extraordinary plant, tasted the unusual berries and spent the night in a state of delicious intoxication, one in which no way affected his intellectual capabilities. For many years afterwards, Moslems looked on coffee as a divine gift brought by from heaven by an angel as a gift to the faithful. Throughout the Middle East, coffee was taken during prayers, in the mosques and even at the Holy Temple at Mecca.
The legend is charming, but the facts are a bit different. Even though the coffee plant is indigenous to Ethiopia and Sudan, it was probably not considered the source of a potable beverage until it made its appearance in Aden in the mid-15th century. From there the drink made its way to Mecca, Damascus and Aleppo and finally to Constantinople where the first coffee house was established in 1554. By the onset of the 17th century, coffee had become known as "the wine of Araby," because Muslims regarded it as a substitute for wine which they were forbidden to drink.
Although the Italians were the first to bring coffee to Europe in 1615, it was only when the first coffee house opened in Oxford, England, forty five years later that coffee houses and coffee drinking became popular with most Europeans. Ten years after the first coffee house had opened in London, the first cafes opened in Marseille and Paris. It was another twenty years until the first coffee house opened in Vienna. By the end of the 17th century, coffee had come of age. Not only was everybody drinking coffee, but nearly everybody had devised a different way of enjoying it. Even though it was mostly curiosity that drew the first patrons to sample this exotic beverage, after a short while it was the fact that the coffee houses had become comfortable places to meet encouraged them to continue to frequent such establishments.
In no place, however, has coffee become as indispensable to life as in the Middle-East. Just a little over a century ago, the American author Mark Twain travelled to Jerusalem. While there he observed that "the people drink coffee on awakening and then continue drinking coffee through the entire day. No business deal can be closed, no one can become a friend, and no one can be seduced without the presence of coffee. With the good lord as my witness, they even serve coffee at their funerals." Not much has changed in the ensuing hundred years.
Today, nearly every Mediterranean nation has its unique coffee habits. Throughout Greece and Turkey men and women consume a remarkable number of cups of strong Turkish coffee. On the island of Corfu, for example, it is considered perfectly normal to consume over twenty cups of strong coffee every day. Whether on Corfu or in Athens, one will do well to remember that Greeks refer to their coffee as "Greek" and not Turkish, and any reference to Turkish coffee will automatically be taken as a political statement, showing preference to the disliked Turks.
Because it is so important to the success or failure of the most simple cafe or the fanciest of restaurants, well made coffee should be strong but not bitter, full of flavor and satisfying. It should never be bitter, grainy or watery. And, while it is obvious that the quality of the coffee used is important, it should be equally clear that the way in which it is made is no less critical.
Around the world, there are only six major ways in which to make coffee. But in the Eastern Mediterranean, only one is considered to be "correct." Also offered are several hints for making each cup of coffee as excellent as possible.
Boiling:
Whether termed "Turkish," "Greek" or "Bedouin" (as throughout Northern Africa), this coffee is made basically by the process of boiling. It is highly popular throughout the Mediterranean region and coffee lovers all over the world admit that a well made cup of "Turkish coffee" is a gift from the gods.
After one has obtained the ground coffee there are only two requirements for preparation.. The first is a BRIKI, the narrownecked pot in which the coffee is made and the second are FINJANS, the small cups in which the coffee is served. A good rule of thumb is that the heavier and sturdier the briki, the better the coffee.
There are many ways to make Turkish coffee, but most agree that the most reliable method for producing consistently good coffee is to fill a 1 cup briki to within 1 inch of the brim with cold water. Before heating the water, add 4 or more heaping teaspoons of coffee. For moderately sweet coffee 2 tsp of sugar should be added. The mixture should then be stirred and put on a high flame. Some believe that the coffee should not be stirred again after being put on the flame. Others disagree.
As the mixture approaches boiling it should be removed from the flame for a few moments to let the foam settle. One should take care not to let the mixture boil over, for this will result in a very messy stove top. In the same way, but without further stirring, the mixture should then be allowed to come to a boil for a second and a third time before being poured.
Pouring is also important, and it is considered polite to pour a small initial amount into each cup and only then to pour the rest. This allows the foamy top, the best part of the coffee to be shared by all. Turkish coffee should always be served with glasses of cold water on the side.
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CORN OIL
Corn oil is a versatile oil with a gentle flavor. It is extracted from sweet corn and is used mostly for salads and margarine, as well as for cooking. It is a good all-purpose oil with a high smoke point and can be used for frying and cooking.
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BEEF
The reason that beef has never attained great popularity in the region is that the mountainous and dessert areas of the region and the often salty soil are simply not well suited for grazing land, the most important requirement for cattle. With the exception of buffalo, which were used mainly as beasts of burden, cattle were not raised in the Eastern Mediterranean, and those that were brought from elsewhere suffered because in addition to their travels, they did not find grazing grounds and their flesh was tough and inedible unless chopped or ground.
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BRISKET OF BEEF
Brisket is a fatty joint cut from just below the shoulder. Sold either with or without the bone, it is a cut that should be slow-roasted.
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BEEF INTESTINE
Although pork intestines are more popular, beef intestine is also occassionally used to make sausages. Artificial casings are also available.
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BEEF STOCK
Beef stock is a liquid which is produced by cooking aromatic vegetables such as onions, leeks, carrots and celery, along with fresh herbs, bones and lean meat. If you brown the meat at the beginning of the process, the stock will be brown; if not it will be clear.
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BEEF(NECK OR SHOULDER)
The shoulder, also including the neck, is a large section weighing approximately 45 kilos cut into six sections. The meat has a full bodied flavor and is good for pot roasting, braising, boiling and for ground meat.
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SKIRT STEAK
Skirt steak, beacause it generally is very gristly, is used for stewing, stocks, and kebabs.
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CHICKEN
No matter what the type of bird, there is a good chance that there are dozens of recipes for stuffing, boiling, grilling, frying, poaching and cooking them in any other imaginable manner. Chicken, for example, can be served minced and in meatballs, cooked in vinegar, boiled together with chick peas, or with lemon or pomegranate sauce. Birds can be stuffed or served with a nearly infinite number of fruits, hard boiled eggs and herbs, nuts, rice, jam, yogurt, onions, and cinnamon or perfumed with rose water. The Egyptians even have a recipe for a loaf of bread that is stuffed with chicken.
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CHICKEN FAT:
Chicken fat is soft and greasy and melts easily. It is a very common ingredient in the Jewish kitchen. It is mixed with flour and used as stuffing in kishke and chicken based dishes. Be careful when cooking with chicken fat because it can burn very easily.
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CHICKEN LIVER/CHICKEN LIVERS:
Chicken liver, like other livers, is very high in iron. It can be fried, grilled or broiled, but because of its size it is most often sautΘed or used in pat(s.
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CHICKEN STOCK:
Chicken stock is a liquid which is produced by cooking aromatic vegetables such as onions, leeks, carrots and celery, along with fresh herbs, bones and lean meat. If you brown the meat at the beginning of the process, the stock will be brown; if not it will be clear.
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CHICKEN WINGS:
Chicken wings are an inexpensive but tasty part of the chicken. They are used in stocks and are also marinated then served fried or grilled.
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DUCK
Because in Egypt, Israel, Jordan and Lebanon wild ducks are considered protected species, it is increasingly difficult to find wild birds for the dinner table. About fifteen years ago two enterprising Israelis succeeded in creating a cross between Moscovy and Peking ducks. The new breed, the mallard duck, has proved to be one of the entirely farmed breeds that does not suffer in taste or texture from artificial breeding.
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GOOSE/GEESE
Geese, also admired for their fatty but firm and remarkably flavorful flesh, remains popular in the area. Because they are expensive, however, their consumption is limited to holidays and special festive events. Like everything else in the area that is considered edible, geese are grilled, can be stuffed and baked (favorite stuffings involve bread, raisins, pistachio nuts and fresh herbs), or can be made into stews. In northern Greece, southern Turkey, and among the Bedouins and members of the Druze faith in the area, it is considered a great honor to kill a goose and serve it to guests.
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LAMB
The favorite meats of the region remain today, as they were three thousand years ago, lamb and mutton. In fact, so taken for granted was it that meat dishes would contain one or the other of these that until recent years writers of recipes felt no need to specify the type of meat to be used in various dishes. Even today a great many recipes call for nothing more complicated than "meat," and one can still find many recipes for "meat with chickpeas," "meat with yogurt and pistachio nuts," and so on. Such recipes simply take it for granted that lamb or mutton are the only meats to be taken seriously.
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LAMB STOCK
Lamb stock is a liquid which is produced by cooking aromatic vegetables such as onions, leeks, carrots and celery, along with fresh herbs, bones and lean meat. If you brown the meat at the beginning of the process, the stock will be brown; if not it will be clear. It is very similar to beef and veal stock, except it has a very strong and difinitive flavor.
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LEG OF LAMB:
The leg is one of the most tender cuts of the lamb. The leg is divided into fillets and shanks, which are then sold on the bone for roasting (such as whole leg of lamb), or boneless to be used in casseroles and meat pies.
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LAMB'S TONGUE
Although not very common outside of the region, lamb tongues are the most tender tongues available. They can be smoked, corned or pickled and are usually eaten hot or cold on sandwiches or in stews.
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PIGEON/PIGEONS
Pigeons remain popular, especially in the Moslem nations of the region. The most tender and tastiest pigeons are those grown in the wild hilly regions of the desserts of Jordan, Egypt, Israel, Lebanon and Syria. Those that are farm-raised in the same countries, as well as in Greece and Turkey, are also considered quite good. Although chickens and turkeys may just as easily make their way into a stew, the most popular ways of preparing pigeons are grilling over hot charcoals or stuffing and baking. Those in the West wanting to try some of these dishes will do well to buy only those birds labeled as "squabs" - that is to say, young pigeons.
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PORK
Because the Moslem and Jewish rules of purity in food are based on those of the Old Testament, it is forbidden to eat pork. However, not all of the people in the Muslim nations of the region and Israel are religiously observant. Although pork can be found in these countries, it is not as common, nor as popular as it is in Greece and Cyprus. One theory to suggest why pork has become a taboo in certain religions is that it is generally thought to be unhygenic. Also, because it has certain similarities to human flesh, it is succeptible to many of man's diseases when raised in hot clmates. And for some unknown reason, in ancient Turkey pork was associated with death.
All of this aside, pork is, due to its tenderness, one of the most often used meats in Greece and Cyprus. It can be roasted, grilled, fried, pickled, smoked, salted and baked. When purchasing pork look for pale pink flesh with firm, white fat. And keep in mind that because nearly all cuts of pork are prime, they can be roasted or grilled.
